So first I would like to note the passing of one full month in Niger. It was on the 25th of September that I first landed here. It’s one of those interesting paradoxes that it feels like I just arrived and that I’ve been here for longer, all at the same time. It seems like yesterday that I was eating barbecue and drinking sweet tea in the states, but it also feels like I’ve been eating nems and drinking Tuareg tea since I can remember.
During the month I’ve been here I have been without a vehicle. It’s not such a terrible thing now that my French is strong enough to take a cab, which goes anywhere in the city for about 50 cents. But, it has been humbling to rely on others to get around town. Each day I walk to Dave’s house for French class, stick around for lunch, then he and Dankarami drive me around to look at motorbikes. Usually around 5 Dave drops me by my apartment where, either my roommate picks me up to go to the Teague’s for dinner, or I take a cab. Yesterday, after a month of searching, I finally found the perfect bike for the perfect price. As excited as I am to have that new freedom, I thought it would be fun to share some of the things I’ve learned about Africa during my shopping adventures and my life as a pedestrian.
Africa is a continent well aware of its position on the global development scale. Consequently, the people try to hide deficiencies in function with the attractive veneer of form. A corrupt government of aristocratic elites is hidden behind the guise of democracy. A failing transportation infrastructure is garnished with frivolous expenditures such as streetlights that are never turned on and traffic signals that are never obeyed. Appearances are everything.
For example, each morning on my walk to the Johannson house I stop by a store to buy a drink. Right beside the store is a carpenter who makes household furniture. I have watched over the past month as that carpenter has turned pathetic splinters of wood, some old rotting foam and new fabrics, into an absolutely beautiful looking couch, loveseat and armchair set. If I had just seen the finished product I would think these furniture pieces were just like something you’d see in any furniture store in the states. But I saw the process, and I know that underneath that fancy fabric there is nothing but old foam and rickety wood.
Another example: I have had the blessing of Dankarami’s help motorcycle shopping. He’s a market maven who seems to know everybody and where to buy anything. But, he also had trouble understanding my search terms. He kept trying to show me Chinese made motorcycles when I thought I had made it clear I wanted a Japanese brand. He couldn’t understand why I would want to spend more on a used Japanese Yamaha than I would on a new Chinese Kasea. When you get down to it, they look like the same thing. And, should I have bike trouble, there is an abundance of cheap parts for the Chinese bike while the Japanese parts are slightly more scarce and slightly more expensive. But, the abundance of Chinese parts is because their bikes break down almost twice as often and have a much greater depreciation after use. But for Dankaramine it was about form, not function. Why get used when you can buy new? Why buy expensive when you get something that looks the same for cheaper? And the concept of investing in something I could resell is completely lost on him.
In the end he finally understood and introduced me to a guy who sells Yamahas. After a few days they brought a beautiful Yamaha DT-125 that I knew was mine right away. On Monday we are going to arrange all the paperwork and complete the sale. So when Dave drove me home that day I said, “Just think, pretty soon you won’t have to drive me everywhere (form).” He replied “It just means pretty soon we won’t see you as often (function).” I guess Africa has rubbed off on me already.
Saturday, October 25, 2008
Saturday, October 18, 2008
Holiday in Gao
When you live in a developing country, it’s amazing what qualifies as a vacation. Last Sunday the entire AG missionary team packed up for a three-night holiday in Gao, Mali. After a long, hard summer and fall, everyone was ready for an escape from Niamey. Having only been here three weeks, I was in no need of a break. But, I am always up for exploring new places and adding a few more stamps to my passport.
How do you define a nation in Africa? By the arbitrary political boundaries established by European colonizers, or by the people that inhabit those lands? Gao is home to same tribes that make the majority of Niamey’s indigenous population: the Tuareg, the Djerma, the Fulani and the Hausa. Walking through the marketplace I heard the song of familiar tongues and was met with the hospitality of familiar cultures. When I was called to Africa, God didn’t give me a burden for the nation of Niger. He gave me a burden for the nations of that land. I fell in love with its people, not its borders; with its tribes, not its government.
Even though we spent most of our time being tourists and taking photos, the trip was about more than just sightseeing. It was a vision quest. Here’s a quick geography lesson. If you head west from Niamey, in 115km (70 miles) you run into Tillabery. Tillabery marks the end of the AG church reach. You only need go another 100km (60 miles) to reach the Niger/Mali border and from there it’s only another 200km (120 miles) to Gao. In that 300km stretch from Tillabery to Gao there are dozens of villages with almost no NGO aid presence, and no churches. The same highway and the same river connect all of these cities.
The whole trip Rodrigo, Brent, Dave and I were looking for opportunities for ministry in the future. We spent a long afternoon visiting with a Tuareg pastor, Cigdi, learning about the city and its needs. Rodrigo and I talked the whole way back about the possibilities we saw there. There is so much potential for partnership and mutual growth between the three cities. With a 5-year, multiple-entry visa there is no telling what may come of the relationships we made there. God knows.
On the tourist side of the trip, we were able to see some pretty awesome things. We visited the tomb of Mohammed Askia, ruler of the Songhoy Empire. We were also able to see the active archeological site where they were digging through the palace ruins. We took a long riverboat ride to see the Pink Dunes where the movie Sahara was filmed. We all climbed and took pictures, but I was the only one who persisted to the highest dune. From the heights of the dune I could see for miles in every directions over the flat, desert terrain. To the South I could look down the river towards Niger. To the North I could look up the river towards Timbuktu. East stood Gao and West was a vacant desert, with only the occasional Tuareg tent. Standing atop that giant hill, I realized what Abraham must have felt like when God took him to a high point to show him the Promised Land. “Lift up your eyes and look from the place where you are, northward, southward and eastward and westward, for all the land that you see I will give to you.” Genesis 13:14-15.
Riding back from the dunes on a moonlit river, Dave’s youngest son, Nathanial, fell asleep in my lap. His elder son, Sam, fell asleep in his father’s lap. While reclining Dave said, “Google Earth this moment. Zoom-out and think about where we are and what we are doing. It doesn’t get much better than this.” I had to agree.
How do you define a nation in Africa? By the arbitrary political boundaries established by European colonizers, or by the people that inhabit those lands? Gao is home to same tribes that make the majority of Niamey’s indigenous population: the Tuareg, the Djerma, the Fulani and the Hausa. Walking through the marketplace I heard the song of familiar tongues and was met with the hospitality of familiar cultures. When I was called to Africa, God didn’t give me a burden for the nation of Niger. He gave me a burden for the nations of that land. I fell in love with its people, not its borders; with its tribes, not its government.
Even though we spent most of our time being tourists and taking photos, the trip was about more than just sightseeing. It was a vision quest. Here’s a quick geography lesson. If you head west from Niamey, in 115km (70 miles) you run into Tillabery. Tillabery marks the end of the AG church reach. You only need go another 100km (60 miles) to reach the Niger/Mali border and from there it’s only another 200km (120 miles) to Gao. In that 300km stretch from Tillabery to Gao there are dozens of villages with almost no NGO aid presence, and no churches. The same highway and the same river connect all of these cities.
The whole trip Rodrigo, Brent, Dave and I were looking for opportunities for ministry in the future. We spent a long afternoon visiting with a Tuareg pastor, Cigdi, learning about the city and its needs. Rodrigo and I talked the whole way back about the possibilities we saw there. There is so much potential for partnership and mutual growth between the three cities. With a 5-year, multiple-entry visa there is no telling what may come of the relationships we made there. God knows.
On the tourist side of the trip, we were able to see some pretty awesome things. We visited the tomb of Mohammed Askia, ruler of the Songhoy Empire. We were also able to see the active archeological site where they were digging through the palace ruins. We took a long riverboat ride to see the Pink Dunes where the movie Sahara was filmed. We all climbed and took pictures, but I was the only one who persisted to the highest dune. From the heights of the dune I could see for miles in every directions over the flat, desert terrain. To the South I could look down the river towards Niger. To the North I could look up the river towards Timbuktu. East stood Gao and West was a vacant desert, with only the occasional Tuareg tent. Standing atop that giant hill, I realized what Abraham must have felt like when God took him to a high point to show him the Promised Land. “Lift up your eyes and look from the place where you are, northward, southward and eastward and westward, for all the land that you see I will give to you.” Genesis 13:14-15.
Riding back from the dunes on a moonlit river, Dave’s youngest son, Nathanial, fell asleep in my lap. His elder son, Sam, fell asleep in his father’s lap. While reclining Dave said, “Google Earth this moment. Zoom-out and think about where we are and what we are doing. It doesn’t get much better than this.” I had to agree.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Miracles
John 14:12
Truly, truly, I say to you, whoever believes in me will also do the works that I do; and greater works than these will he do, because I am going to the Father.
The past two weeks I have been working with a team of medical professionals in a free medical clinic. They came to practice medicine in an orphanage and a remote village called Sansanne Hausa. Throughout those two weeks, over 2,200 patients were seen by two doctors, two surgeons and an OBGYN. That is, at least, five times as many patients as they would normally see in that amount of time. I spent most of my time assisting two dentists from El Salvador, cleaning, filling and pulling teeth, and making dentures. Now that the team has safely returned home I have time to sum up some thoughts.
What constitutes a miracle? Does it always manifest itself through supernatural signs and wonders? This week I watched a different sort of miracle in action. The sick were made well, the malnourished were given food and the toothless were given smiles. And all it took was a team of 16 people who were willing to set aside their overcrowded schedules for two weeks, spend thousands of dollars (and sacrifice thousands more in missed work) to travel thousands of miles with dozens of crates of medicine to treat strangers and beggars who speak a different language and worship a different god. That’s no small miracle if you ask me.
So when Jesus said we would do even greater things than he, what did he mean? Did he mean his supernatural power would dwell within us and manifest itself in signs and wonders greater than he ever demonstrated? Yes, I believe so. The Bible says that wherever Peter’s shadow was cast people were healed. But I think that explanation is incomplete. I think he also intended that through our own free will and God given abilities we would accomplish things greater than his signs and wonders. For an omnipotent God, which is easier: to supernaturally heal a person dying of malaria, or to rally a group of free-willed doctors from across the world to administer a cure that took years to develop and costs way more than the average person can afford? Both are improbable, if not seemingly impossible. Both are miraculous. And for both, to Him be the glory and praise, Amen.
Truly, truly, I say to you, whoever believes in me will also do the works that I do; and greater works than these will he do, because I am going to the Father.
The past two weeks I have been working with a team of medical professionals in a free medical clinic. They came to practice medicine in an orphanage and a remote village called Sansanne Hausa. Throughout those two weeks, over 2,200 patients were seen by two doctors, two surgeons and an OBGYN. That is, at least, five times as many patients as they would normally see in that amount of time. I spent most of my time assisting two dentists from El Salvador, cleaning, filling and pulling teeth, and making dentures. Now that the team has safely returned home I have time to sum up some thoughts.
What constitutes a miracle? Does it always manifest itself through supernatural signs and wonders? This week I watched a different sort of miracle in action. The sick were made well, the malnourished were given food and the toothless were given smiles. And all it took was a team of 16 people who were willing to set aside their overcrowded schedules for two weeks, spend thousands of dollars (and sacrifice thousands more in missed work) to travel thousands of miles with dozens of crates of medicine to treat strangers and beggars who speak a different language and worship a different god. That’s no small miracle if you ask me.
So when Jesus said we would do even greater things than he, what did he mean? Did he mean his supernatural power would dwell within us and manifest itself in signs and wonders greater than he ever demonstrated? Yes, I believe so. The Bible says that wherever Peter’s shadow was cast people were healed. But I think that explanation is incomplete. I think he also intended that through our own free will and God given abilities we would accomplish things greater than his signs and wonders. For an omnipotent God, which is easier: to supernaturally heal a person dying of malaria, or to rally a group of free-willed doctors from across the world to administer a cure that took years to develop and costs way more than the average person can afford? Both are improbable, if not seemingly impossible. Both are miraculous. And for both, to Him be the glory and praise, Amen.
Personal Update
It has been over a week since my last update, and for that I apologize. Life here has been very full and there were many days where I left the house at 7 and would return after 10 that night. But, as tiring as the past two weeks were, I am so satisfied with how they were spent. It was incredible to watch the medical team in action. I got to know some pretty incredible people, American and Nigerien alike. I had the opportunity to get to know to of the Nigerien pastors, Djibo and Hassane, really well. We conversed through my limited (yet growing) French and joked during the long, crammed drives to and from the village.
The team left two days ago, which meant saying goodbye to new friends and my mother. It also marked the first time I have been in Niger without a mission team. I have officially joined Nigerien society, buying a cell phone and moving into my apartment. The moto won’t come for a little while, but Rodrigo and I have been price shopping while I gather the funds. We are also planning a weekend retreat to Gao, Mali with the missionaries here. It should be a great chance to relax after a busy two weeks. I’m also looking forward to the chance to visit with and get direction from my supervising missionary, Brent Teague.
Personally, I am doing very well. I am learning so much each day, both during my hours of French and the time I spend with people here. After a day down with a stomach bug, I have been healthy with ample energy for the day. But most importantly, God is teaching me and showing me so many things during this time. I am still excited for what is in store during the coming months and so glad to be right where I am.
The team left two days ago, which meant saying goodbye to new friends and my mother. It also marked the first time I have been in Niger without a mission team. I have officially joined Nigerien society, buying a cell phone and moving into my apartment. The moto won’t come for a little while, but Rodrigo and I have been price shopping while I gather the funds. We are also planning a weekend retreat to Gao, Mali with the missionaries here. It should be a great chance to relax after a busy two weeks. I’m also looking forward to the chance to visit with and get direction from my supervising missionary, Brent Teague.
Personally, I am doing very well. I am learning so much each day, both during my hours of French and the time I spend with people here. After a day down with a stomach bug, I have been healthy with ample energy for the day. But most importantly, God is teaching me and showing me so many things during this time. I am still excited for what is in store during the coming months and so glad to be right where I am.
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